Kreuzberg

Election day in Berlin, and yet another protest march through the streets of Kreuzberg, my temporary suburb of residence and the (at least self-proclaimed) cultural capital of West Berlin. This time, dozens of mostly young people donned shiny black jackets and braved the chilly wind and persistent rain to protest against the gentrification of their suburb. Despite the weather, they were guaranteed an audience as voters milled around polling booths. Banners proclaimed "If we want to see change, it's up to us" and "Mieten stopp!", a plea for caps on rising rent prices.

There is a slight panic pervading this suburb. Gritty, edgy Kreuzberg, a hub for artists' studios, independent galleries, students and quirky coffee joints is fast becoming the suburb of choice for wealthy investment types. Residents are nervous as buildings are bought out from underneath them and rent increased, including Daniel and his housemates who have lived in central Kreuzberg for 2 years. A couple of months ago, a notice appeared in their mailbox that the building had been sold and they should expect a visit from the new landlord at any time. Weeks later, a thirty-something sleek blonde businesswoman was sitting at their kitchen table, calmly informing them that the rent was going up, and with their paltry student incomes, they realistically probably couldn't afford to stay cosy in their 3-bedroom flat long term.

Tenancy advisory boards are likely working overtime, as angry and confused tenants are desperate to find loopholes in new leases they've been asked to sign by new "super landlords" who are buying up Berlin's cheap flats in bulk. For the last 20 years since the city's re-unification, rental prices have stayed low, due to abundance in cheap housing from the communist era and a sluggish economy taking time to recover from communist East Germany's bankruptcy. For a capital city in a country of 80m, the population is small at under 4m and unemployment is high. Yet every Berliner you talk to is aware that the days of a rental paradise are over, as the city has recently been "discovered" by investors, banks, international companies and yuppies, pushing young families, hipsters and new immigrants to the outskirts.

The irony of this trend for Kreuzberg, as we sat around discussing the other night, is that the suburb's very charm and edginess derives from its unique cultural mix that will very likely be sacrificed once the poor are pushed out. Students and immigrants from lower socio-economic backgrounds will struggle to afford rents. And whether the Turkish eateries and cheap clothing stores, student galleries and poky (but probably not terribly profitable) little bars will still exist in new, hyper-trendy Kreuzberg is doubtful, as they're currently taking up prime real-estate. Another potential problem for the suburb's residents is "teeny-tourism", as I've mentioned in a previous blog entry (see: Tourists). To illustrate, across from Daniel's building, a combination gallery/hostel has just opened up and guess who was woken by a guitarist playing "Land of the Rising Sun" and screeching girls at 4am, Tuesday? Even residents who aren't getting pushed out by high rent prices aren't necessarily keen to live in a disco-esque environment 24/7.

Not so long ago, I had a dream of buying a little two-bedroom flat in Berlin, since once-upon-a-time Aussie salaries went a pretty long way in the Berlin property market. Sadly, that dream evaporated about the same time as the second new bar/furniture shop/American book store in a matter of months run by entreprenuerial Americans/Swedes sprung up on the Schoenleinstrasse. English is now to heard on the street as frequently as German and Turkish. I'm too late.

Although I admire the protestors' stamina and sympathise with their cause, after having witnessed the gentrification of a number of suburbs back home in Sydney (Newtown, Paddington, Surry Hills, anyone?) I'm doubtful that they're going to make much progress in getting the state to prevent rising rent prices. Wake up and smell the bulldozer fumes people, things are a-changing. Take what small victories you can and enjoy this unique cultural mix while it lasts because a whole different mix is coming your way very soon.